Tall Trees Talk

Every spring we can not wait for the first Gray Whales to pass by Redwood National Parkon their way to Baja California.  At Redwood Adventures we love to take our guests from the Elk Meadow Cabins to the local beaches and watch them spout, flap their tails and jump out of the water.  Occasionally, we get a whale that washes on to the beach and it tends to get little attention (until you walk down wind and get a smell of a decaying carcass).  Some times the University comes out and buries the whale, later removing the bones for display and research.  This time it was a bit different.  The article below written by

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The gray whale washed up on Dry Lagoon beach on Feb. 2 was hardly an unusual sight. But when the mammal rolled over in the surf 11 days later, the shaft of a harpoon could be seen jutting from its flesh.

Humboldt State University Marine Mammal Stranding Network members removed the harpoon, and found the tip of another harpoon embedded in the whale. They also collected additional tissue samples to turn in to the National Marine Fisheries Service for investigation, which has recently produced some results.

Commercial whaling has been outlawed by the United States since the 1970s. There is a limited harvest of bowhead whales by native Alaskans, along with a few gray whales that are allowed to be taken by American Indians in Washington. The harpoon appears to be of the type used by Alaskan and Russian natives for subsistence hunting, officials say.

”This whale had probably traveled 3,500 miles from where it was likely targeted to where it ended up,” said marine biologist Dawn Goley at Humboldt State University.

Goley said biologists were unable to determine the cause of death of the 27-foot female whale, and initially suspected that it had succumbed to natural causes before the harpoon was exposed. The whale was likely a yearling on its first migration from feeding grounds in the Bering Sea or Chukchi Sea between Alaska and Russia, to Baja California, Goley said.

Alaskan natives can only target bowhead whales for subsistence use

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under regulations set by the International Whaling Commission, and killed about 35 to 75 whales a year between 2000 and 2008. The native people of the far northeast Russian territory of Chukotka — mainly Yupik, Eskimo and Chukchi people — are allowed to kill up to 140 gray whales each year between 2008 to 2012.

National Marine Fisheries Service Special Agent Tim Broadman said that the harpoon found in the Dry Lagoon whale was not a commercial whaling tool, and appears to match those used by the natives in the Chukotka region of Russia. He said that native whalers must record when whales are struck and then get away, and the whaling commission does have a record of a lost whale from that region.

Broadman said that the whale appears to have gone through quite an ordeal — even aside from being harpooned.

The young whale had teeth marks consistent with an orca attack, and also a kinked spine.

”It’s heart-wrenching in a way,” he said.

The host country pleads the case for native subsistence hunting before the whaling commission, which sets quotas for a five-year period. The commission then determines how many whales can be taken without harming the populations of the whales in question.

”It’s based on science,” said National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration spokesman Scott Smullen. “How much can that stock take from subsistence hunting?”

Gray whales were nearly driven to extinction by commercial whaling in the 1850s and again in the early 1900s, according to the American Cetacean Society. The eastern North Pacific gray whale was protected by the whaling commission in 1947, and their population has recovered to between 19,000 and 23,000 individuals, which is probably close to their original population size, according to the society.

In the rationale provided by Russia for the 2008-2012 time frame, it says that harvesting and eating whales is essential to the survival and cultural unity of Chukotka people. There is no substitute for whale meat, the paper reads, which represents some 90 percent of the meat in native diets. The native hunts claim about 126 whales a year, the paper reads, and is limited by lack of boats, equipment and trained crews.

”It is necessary for cultural survival to support the age-old tradition of subsistence marine mammal harvest,” the paper reads.

John Driscoll covers natural resources/industry. He can be reached at 441-0504 or jdriscoll@times-standard.com.

Del Norte festival has new name, new date

Known as the Aleutian Goose Festival for 10 years and now renamed with a new date, the “California Redwoods Bird & Nature Festival” has moved from late March to May 7 to 9 starting this year. The reinvented festival, held on the most northwestern coast in Del Norte County, promises the same quality workshops and field trips as it did in the past.

Online registration is now available and registrants can choose from 70 events including many new programs possible due to the anticipated better weather.

Bird watchers, nature enthusiasts and cultural history buffs can enjoy such offerings as charter boat ocean excursions, harbor and lagoon kayaking, native plant and wildflower walks, and Tolowa and Yurok cultural programs. New bird programs include rising early to watch marbled murrelets fly at dawn, learning about the Yurok Tribe’s California condor reintroduction program, and witnessing American dippers foraging on the Smith River.

The keynote speaker for this year’s Friday evening program is National Geographic’s Explorer-in-Residence Mike Fay. He will share his adventures and findings from his recently completed one-year, 1,100 mile hike transecting California’s coastal redwood forests. Fay’s journey was featured in the October 2009 issue of National Geographic magazine.

More information about the California Redwoods Bird & Nature Festival and online registration are available at www.calredwoodsbirdfest.org or call the festival office at 465-0888.

Occasionally something comes across my ‘desk’ here at the Elk Meadow Cabins that I like to share.  Here are some big trees.  We have the biggest tree in the world here.  But there are some other big ones out there, below are some pictures of the biggest trees.

1- Giant Sequoia

General Sherman is the name of this Giant Sequoia. It is one of the tallest Giant Sequoia trees in the world with a height of about 275 feet (84.8 meters). Although not the tallest tree in the world (coast redwood being taller). As of 2002, the volume of its trunk measured about 1487 cubic meters. The tree is located in the Giant Forest of Sequoia National Park in the US. The tree is believed to be between 2,300 and 2,700 years old. It was named after General William Tecumseh Sherman, American Civil War leader in 1879. Measuring over 115 meters, the Hyperion in Redwood National park is currently the world’s tallest tree.

2- Coast Redwood

Del Norte Titan, discovered June 1998 in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, California. This tree has an estimated stem volume of 1044.7 cubic meters and is 93.57 m tall with a dbh of 7.22 m.

3- Western Red Cedar

Western red cedar is a large tree, to 50-60 m tall and 3 m (exceptionally 6 m) trunk diameter. The Quinault Lake red cedar (left) is the largest knownwestern red cedar in the world with a wood volume of 500 cubic meters. It is located near the northwest shore of Lake Quinault north of Aberdeen, Washington.

Tane Mahuta, a giant Kauri in the Waipoua Forest of Northland Region, New Zealand. The tree’s Maori name means “Lord of the Forest” and is the name of a god in the Maori pantheon. Tāne Mahuta is the most massive kauri known to stand today. It is 51 meters (169 feet) in height, and has a circumference of 13.8 meters (45 feet). There is no proof of the tree’s age, but it is estimated to be between 1250 and 2500 years old. The trunk girth is 13.77 m, the trunk height is 17.68 m, the total height is 51.2 m and the trunk volume is 244.5 m3. It is the most famous tree in New Zealand and the oldest.

4- Kauri Tane Mahuta Tree

However, the Alerce Fitzroya cupressoides, as yet un-measured, may well slot in at third or fourth place, Montezuma Cypress Taxodium mucronatum, and Old Lost Monarch and other giants are also likely to be high in the list. The largest angiosperm tree is an Australian Mountain-ash (Eucalyptus regnans) in Tasmania, known as the “Two Towers” tree, with a volume of 430 m³ (15,185 cu ft)

5- Giant Sequoia

This Giant Sequoia or Sequoiadendron giganteum is 94.9 m (311.4 ft) tall located in Redwood Mountain Grove, Kings Canyon National Park, California, United States

When people stop by the store at the Elk Meadow Cabins, they always ask, “What is there to do here?”.  It seems like a silly question for someone who spends everyday ‘doing’ things here in Redwood National Park.  I must admit, I kinda of have a stump-speech and usually point out a couple of spots that I know are fun and easy to find.

Sometimes I forget the obvious spots close by the Elk Meadow Cabins and it takes someone else to point out how cool your own backyard is.  I came across this from ‘E-How‘-an online travel site. I think you will enjoy the spots listed below.  All of these spots are just a short drive from the Elk Meadow Cabins (even walking distance to a couple).

Bald Hills
Bald Hills is an unpaved road that is accessible 2 miles north of Orick off of Highway 101. The road provides a tour through the redwood forest and allows visitors to view elk, access the tall tree grove, woodlands and prairies. The Bald Hills Road tour is not recommended for motor homes, trailers and similar vehicles because of the steepness of the road.

Cal-Barrel
Cal-Barrel is a 3-mile paved auto tour that allows you to drive through redwoods. The road is also open to mountain bikes, but you do not have the option to turn around on the road if you have a motor home or trailer. The Cal-Barrel road is 6 miles north of Orick along the Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway off of Highway 101.

Coastal Drive
The Coastal Drive through the Redwood National Forest is south of the Klamath River Bridge and is an 8-mile drive near the river or ocean. The road consists of paved and unpaved areas and includes coastal views, a hiking trail, whale watching, picnic areas and WWII historic sites. Motor homes and trailers cannot pass through unpaved sections.

Davison Road
The Davison Road allows you to tour the redwood forest and go through Gold Bluffs Beach and Fern Canyon, which can include a half mile hike through a canyon. The trail head requires a day-fee use to access the trail head, and the road is unpaved. Davidson Road is four miles north of Orick off of Highway 101.

Enderts Beach
Enderts Beach is 3 miles south of Crescent City off of Highway 101 and is a paved road. Enderts Beach has a beach and trail access, whale-watching, bird-watching, access to the tide pools and coastal views in the Redwood National Park.

This is a great article about Redwood National and State Parks.  I have had the pleasure of meeting the author, Patrick, and he has a great perspective on our natural lands.  I have read this several times and I am amazed at the depth of his insight.  He also gave a great plug for our cabins here at the Elk Meadow in Redwood National Park.

Thanks Patrick-keep up the great work ! Check-out more of his writing  at the Mighty Sparrow.com

Posted by Patrick on 2/05/10 • Categorized as Uncategorized

The trees in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, which is part of Redwood National Park, which is one of the best national parks in the country.

It’s easy to become overwhelmed during a visit to Redwood National Park, what with all of the big trees and prehistoric landscapes and wildlife and even bigger trees and big elk and….you get the point. Seeing that the Park has so much to offer, you can imagine how hard it is to fit everything the park has to offer in a 3 day trip, or even a 5 day excursion. Well, that’s why we’re here. Whether you are just driving through the northern California coastal park on your way from Portland to San Francisco and just want a half-day hike to get out of the car and stretch your legs or if you have 4 nights to relax among the world’s tallest trees, this guide should serve a helpful tool on your trip to Redwood National Park, one of the best National Parks in the country. Enjoy the trees! And, don’t worry, it’s normal; everyone who visits the park gets a sore neck.

About the Trees

Ah, the trees (gazes out to the window northwards). As it is widely (and often) reported, the Coast Redwood (scientific name: sequoia sempervirens) is the tallest species of plant in the world. From a seed no bigger than a tomato, the California Coast Redwood can grow to staggering proportions: heights as tall as 379 feet and girths as wide as 22. Think about it….Ok, now that you’ve begun to truly realize the size of the trees you now have an understanding for all of the hubhub surrounding the living skyscrapers. Now we can continue…Scientists claim that the trees (or very close relatives) have been thriving along the coast for over 160 million years, since the Jurassic Era. The Redwoods are very particular; they require a continually damp, moderate climate to thrive and grow, which is exactly why they only grow on a relatively thin band along the coast. The more fog, the better. It’s widely thought that the trees once made up an endless, thick band from Central California all the way up to Oregon. Now, due to centuries of logging (the industrial revolution!), the trees are relegated to random splotches up the California coast, from the latitude of Big Sur to just across the Oregon border in the north. In other words, out of the 2 million acres of old-growth Redwoods that once guarded the coast, only 85,000 acres survive. (Redwood National Park holds almost 40,000 of those acres.)

So, why do they grow so tall? No one really knows yet, but they’re working on it. We do know, however:

Redwood trees can live for over 2,000 years, and most live for around 600. That’s no bristlecone pine, but it’s close. They have natural resilience against both insects and fire, two natural items that usually do weaker trees in. Even if a redwood tree is hollowed out by flame, the outer bark thrives on, keeping the tree alive. Wind is what brings the redwoods down. As tall as the bark grows, the redwood roots only go down 10-13 feet into the soil. To call the giants top-heavy would be an understatement. To secure themselves, the trees spread their roots 60-80 feet out around in all directions. The roots, interacting with the roots of neighboring redwoods, form a densely woven matt to secure the forests’ upright standing.

About the Park

It’s actually more than one park. Within Redwood National Park are Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park and Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. All three state parks are their own parks, yet they all fall under the umbrella of Redwood National. Confused? I still am too. Suffice it to say; the history of Redwood National Park is a bit convoluted. But, I’ll try. In the 1920s the Save-the-Redwoods League (can you guess what their mission was?), fought successfully for the establishment of Prairie Creek, Del Norte Coast and Jedediah Smith. The land around the three parks was targeted for conservation but the war effort, and the subsequent need for wood, promoted the purpose of logging above all others. It wasn’t until the 1960s when the Save-the-Redwoods League, the Sierra Club, and the National Geographic Society all teamed up to lobby Congress heavily for the creation of a National Park for the redwoods. Finally, in 1968 President Lyndon Johnson created Redwood National Park. In 1994, after multiple expansions to the national park, the parks were combined for administrative purposes. I have no idea how the combination of state and national parks increases administrative efficiency, but it’s all one big happy family now.

Can’t Miss

Whether you’re in the park for a day or a week, these are the spots that you have to visit:

Fern Canyon: The name speaks for itself. In the park, close to the Pacific Ocean, lies a canyon with walls 50-80 feet high, completely covered in ferns. It’s a hard site to imagine, but just think Jurassic Park 2 (they filmed a portion of the movie here). The area is accessible two ways: by hike or by car. If you decide to hike, be prepared for a decent exercise: it’s about 10 miles roundtrip from the Visitor’s Center, at Elk Prairie, which is on the Newton Drury Scenic Parkway about 3 miles north of Orick. For many the trail, named James Irvine, is among the best in the United States. The trees reach a diameter of 18 feet as you walk from the heart of the park to the sea. If you drive, it’s….quick. In about 30 minutes you can get from the 101 Highway to the Gold Bluffs Beach parking lot; just take the Elk Meadow Parking lot exit and follow the signs. From Gold Bluffs, it’s only a ½ mile to Fern Canyon. It’s still not a short trip though- you’ll spend at least an hour wandering around the canyon.

The Cathedral Trees Trail: Located right off the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway is one of the best trails in the park. That means you can access the trail, and some of the best trees in the park, without straying very far from your car. Access the trail by taking the Elk Prairie trail away and east from the Visitor Center. The groves along Cathedral Trees, which account for a relatively large number of the world’s densest redwoods, are unbelievably striking. The trail is also great for kids as there are tons of berry bushes lining the walkway.

The Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway

The Brown Creek Loop: Though it doesn’t rival the trees on the Cathedral Trees Trail or the Prairie Creek trail, the Brown Creek trail is the redwood forest at its best. The trees are huge, the fauna is wonderful and, best of all you hear almost no foreign noise. It’s one of the quietest trails I’ve ever been on and it’s within a stone’s throw from Drury Scenic Parkway. Though it’s relatively short (3.5 miles), prepare for a decent hike. The trail, which is a combination of the Brown Creek Trail, Rhododendron trail and South Fork trail, is rough and you’ll have to do a little climbing. The trailhead is right off the Drury parkway. After the Visitor Center and the Big Tree wayside, park at the second pullout on the right. The trail will be well marked and it’s ok to park on the side of the road.

Perfect Trips For For An Extended Stay

Redwood Creek, looking torwards the Tall Trees Grove.

The Redwood Creek Trail to the Tall Trees Grove: The Tall Trees Grove might be the best-known grove in the entire Redwood National and State Park system. It’s the location of the Libbey Tree, once known as the tallest living thing. Some of the world’s top 10 tallest trees are also in the Grove (though their locations are secret) and the world’s tallest tree, Hyperion (at 379.1), claims a spot somewhere above the banks of Redwood Creek. To add to it all, the Tall Trees Grove is the hardest popular destination to reach in Redwood National Park- you’ve got to really make an effort to get there. It’s at least a 6-mile hike and at most an overnight trip.

There are two ways to experience the Redwood Creek and the Tall Trees Grove. The first is the one I would recommend: Park at the first trailhead at Redwood Creek, then hike the entire 8 miles on the Redwood Creek Trail, which runs along the banks of the, you guessed it, Redwood Creek. Feel free to wander off the trail; I like to walk the majority of the trail on the sandbars of the creek instead of amongst the trees, thereby getting an outside view of the redwoods hugging the banks of the creek (as well as some sun). I cannot successfully explain the scenery- it’s exactly what every redwood forest lover imagines. After you’ve made it to Tall Trees, you can set up camp in the Redwood Creek riverbed for a serene overnight stay in one of the quietest places in the park (in order to stay overnight you have to get a permit at the Kuchel Visitor Center). After a night among the redwoods, take your time making the 8 mile trek back to your car and enjoy the sounds of silence. The other way to get to Tall Trees is markedly easier. First, you’ll have to get a parking permit at the Kuchel Visitor Center (the closer lot has a car limit in order to protect the grove from overuse). Drive your car up Bald Hills Rd. past the Lady Bird Johnson Grove to the turnoff for the C-line road. The next 6 miles will be on a bumpy dirt road so, don’t worry, you’re in the right place (the trek from the Visitor Center to the trailhead is about an hour). Once you park, it’s a 1.3-mile hike to Tall Trees (4 miles round trip, taking in to account the Tall Trees loop). Don’t get too cocky with the relatively short hike though- the elevation changes are decent.

Even though this trip seems long and out of the way, I can promise that it is easily worth it. I’m well aware that this is my opinion, and may be mine alone, but this is the most rewarding trip in the park- for its diverse scenery, its flora, its elk meadow and, most important of all, its tall trees.

Anywhere In Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park: Of course, the entire park could be listed as a “can’t miss”, but since it’s out of the way from the heart of the park- Prairie Creek State Park- I’ve included it as a spot for those who stay longer than 2 hours. According to many redwood fanatics, Jedediah Smith is the best redwood park in the world. There is no other competition. It’s unbelievably scenic and, to many, it’s the least spoiled and least touched redwood park in the world. The park is relatively undeveloped, as most of the park isn’t served by any trail at all. For all the gorgeous, undisturbed scenery, most of it goes unnoticed: Jedediah Smith has some of the largest (by volume) redwoods in the world. Located within the park (with the locations being secret) are: the Lost Monarch, the world’s largest known redwood; the Del Norte Titan, which used to be; the El Viejo del Norte; and, of course, the famed Grove of Titans (which includes the Screaming Titans).

Unlike other popular (and great) redwood parks, the Jedediah Smith Park isn’t along a major road- you have to turn onto Humboldt Road, continue through a residential area until it dead ends at Howland Hill Rd., turn right, continue along the dirt road until you enter the park. All you need to know is that it’s off a dirt road.

Where to Stay

There are tons of places to stay in Eureka and Arcata, but save ‘em. You want to stay amongst the trees; you want to wake up to the sight of redwoods. There are more campgrounds and lodging in the area, but these are my recommendations:

The Smith River Campground at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park: You can sleep in an untouched redwood forest along the banks of the Smith River. Enough said. Ok, I’ll say a little more. The entrance is right off Rt. 199, north of Del Norte Redwoods State Park and south of Oregon. To reserve a campsite (which, I think, is a must), call 1.800.444.7275 or visit the Jedediah Smith Reserve America page to do it online.

The Elk Meadow Cabins, smack dab in the middle of Redwood National Park.

The Elk Meadow Cabins: I know you’re probably thinking, “Why these cabins over the hotel down the road?” Well, even though the cabins are on private land, they are completely surrounded on all sides by Redwood National Park. Seriously. The cabins are smack dab right in the heart of the park and, best of all, Elk Meadow is directly in the backyard of the cabins. You don’t even have to leave your porch to get a glimpse of one of the area’s Roosevelt Elk herds- a site to see, especially during rutting season. You can easily walk or bike (the company rents out bikes) to Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park or you can easily drive to any of the other trails listed above.

In total, there are six 1,200 square foot cabins- each is newly renovated with 3 bedrooms (and 4 beds), 2 bathrooms, a full kitchen, a full living room and a deck for elk watching and/or just relaxing. That means you can house, at the very least, 10 people in each cabin. During peak season (from May 15-September 6) the cabins run at $229/night. During the winter they run at $199. To reserve a cabin, visit the Redwood Adventures site.

Gold Bluffs Beach Campground: If you want to camp on the coast you’ll have to take a chance- the Gold Bluffs campground is first-come, first-served only. In my opinion, it’s completely worth it. It might be a bit windy or a bit foggy, but how often do you get to stay on the beach in a National Park? It’s located about 3 miles north of Orick. Take the exit for the Elk Meadow parking lot and follow the signs to Gold Bluffs Beach.

Wildife Among the Tall Trees

Of course, I recognize that there are those who are just along for the ride. You might not be that interested in tall trees (shame on you! Just kidding…), but your significant other/child/parent might be. Good news for you, the Redwood National and State Park system is teeming with a diverse collection of wildlife, including a handful of endangered/threatened species.

A male Roosevelt Elk in Elk Meadow in Redwood National Park.

Roosevelt Elk: As you drive into the park there is a good chance you’ll spot a herd along the road. There are multiple herds that roam around the park, all south of the Klamath River. You’ll have the best chance of seeing the large mammals if you hang around Elk Meadow, Elk Prairie and Redwood Creek. If you are up in the park in the fall, you’ll get a chance to see a natural spectacle, the elk-rutting season. During a period of 4-5 weeks, the dominant males will bugle, rut and fight to obtain respect and supreme status among the herd.

Marbled Murrelet: My favorite threatened species in the redwood forest, the marbled murrelet is a small, long-billed bird that nests on the branches of Coastal Redwoods, Sitka Spruces and Douglas Firs (among others). I’m not happy that it’s threatened if that’s how it sounded. Anyway, so cute.

Bald Eagle: You know the deal. America.

Northern Spotted Owl: If you see one, you are one lucky ______. Like others on the list, the Endangered Species Act protects the owl. It’s estimated that there are only 3,000 to 5,000 left in the world. Hence, the reason you are so lucky if you see one.

We have people that stop by our office and ask questions about Redwood National and State Parks.  Most of the questions revolve around where different trails heads are, food options in the area, how to get to Fern Canyon, where is the dive through tree etc.  However, inevitably the conversation ends up focusing on two items: 1) Where is the Biggest Tree in the World and 2) Are there Mountain Lions?

The article below addresses both questions.  The author, Mario Vaden, is a tree expert and very passionate about Redwood Trees.  Has put in countless hours (years?) studying and documenting old growth Redwood Tress here in Redwood National and State Parks.  Please check out his web site for great information and some spectacular photos.  www.mdvaden.com

Hyperion ~ World’s Tallest Redwood

In the hills of Redwood National Park

Copyright 2009 by Mario Vaden

Hyperion coast redwood, discovered 2006 by Chris Atkins and Michael Taylor in Redwood National Park, is the tallest in the world. 2009 measurment 115.61m or 379.1′ high, 15.88′ dbh. The meaning of dbh is diameter breast high, 4.5′ above grade.

Access is not limited to one direction of approach. There are several ways to approach this tallest redwood in the world, depending on whether the area is approached from redwood creek far below, or mountains that flank the valley, logging roads and cat tracks, horse trails, or a combination of those. Presently, my favorite story of a search by other folks is a 2007 Metroactive Redwood article. It sounds like they may have picked the Redwood Creek trail trailhead with the parking lot off Bald Hills Road, near Highway 101. That redwood article opens with them weighing options in hours and pints of blood.

This area has been nicknamed Fog Valley too, in a book by Richard Preston, describing Steve Sillett and Michael Taylor heading downstream into the rugged region. Again, not headed up a brook, but downward.

Hyperion is on a hillside, but I saw no vague resemblance of a “keyhole” in the natural landscape, a description used for the area. The location will of course be as broad as the imaginations of the few who know where it grows. The area is not neccessarily uncharted or lost because virtually all of Redwood National Park is on a map: the mountains and valleys. But “lost valley” is fitting.

Near Hyperion, were scads of fresh bear footprints, claw marks on logs and scat. By far the most bear signs I’ve seen in redwood groves during the past few years.

My entrance into the remote area involved several wet episodes. Sometimes, crossing water, its hard to tell what is ankle deep or waist high. Eventually the search focused solely on hillside and forest. The wooded habitat near the tallest redwood Hyperion had diversity: Mahonia, sword fern, alder, sorrel, tan oak, bigleaf maple, some huckleberry and plenty of moss. The Bryophytes, or moss, added to the scenic beauty of this forest area.

As with other redwood groves, Hyperion withstood forest fire, evident from a few burns on the trunk. The lower trunk has no significant damage like large Goose Pens. The circumference of the lower stem a plentiful wrapping of cambium and bark. The trunk base has a quick taper for the first 14′ or so, then a gentle taper and no significant lean. It is a single stem: slightly elliptical. The bark furrows are more vertical than spiral like some other redwoods.

The forest floor around Hyperion redwood and grove is thickly covered with thick organic: leaves, needles and twigs. Its like a sponge. There is substantial coarse woody debris as well. I had trouble finding this redwood again the 2nd time, because the vegetation is pretty thick in some spots around it.

Some folks consider Hyperion as the holy grail of redwoods. One naturalist wrote in reply to once that they would not set foot on that earth because it was sacred ground. That sounds imaginative. But it was not like frogs and bears there genuflect. Hyperion redwood is a rare and unique component of the park. For now the location remains secret. Hyperion is very remote. My edge was mainly decades of professional arboriculture work and being able to read the forest. Maybe it’s location should be called Hyperion Hill since it’s up on a hillside. Most folks won’t recognize redwoods like this. Note that I photographed lichens on Lost Monarch and did not realize which redwood it was until 6 months later. These redwoods are more obscure than some folks realize

The traces of bear near there reminded me of Blue Ledge Mine east near Applegate Lake, where in 4 visits I saw black bears twice and traces once. One time coming back down from the mountain, fresh prints were in snow overlapping mine: the bear had sniffed my tracks, but left. Another visit approaching a cliff, a black bear was up a trunk just below, looking for food. 6 months later I saw another bear running into the forest. Again, that was east near Red Buttes Wilderness.

Black bear attacks are exceptionally uncommon but trend predatory when they occur. So far no face to face for us in Redwood National Park, but I heard that Michael Taylor encountered a bear near Atlas Grove, and others have seen them yearly. One part of Hyperion Valley had a couple of Mountain Lion tracks. Although I didn’t see Mountain Lion around Hyperion, I watched 3 Mountain Lions running in the same Redwood National Park, not far away. These cats can leap 16′ vertical and 30′ horizontal. I’ve also seen Mountain Lion tracks in the next park to the north: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park The image at right below is one of those Cougar tracks from Prairie Creek, to show how large their prints are. About 3.5″ to 4″ wide. Black Bear tracks I’ve seen look much more even around the front, but the Cougar toe digits seem pronounced.

Mountain Lion notes in case you find tracks in Redwood National Park:

The Parks office may appreciate a report about sightings of the Mountain Lions.

• Look for overall round shape of the track, common to most felines. The mountain lion’s front foot has 4 toes and heel that registers, which means they make an imprint.
• The front foot is larger and more asymmetrical than the rear.
• The palm of the track is almost twice the size of the digits, unlike canine tracks.
• The heel has a dimple in the middle at the top of the pad just under the two middle toes.
• Between toes and palm pad, is a curved ridge, which some trackers call a linked ridge. Canines have a diamond or pyramid shape in this area.
• Toe shape is oval, and the most striking characteristic is that toes are offset. They point in a different direction from the heel pad with one toe ahead or forward of others.
• One of the outer 2 toes is forward of the other. Dog toes point straight or slightly toward each other.
• If you try to draw an X between a mountain lion’s toe pads, note that the X crosses into the heel pad.
• If you draw an imaginary X between dog toe pads, the X does not go into the foot pad. Sometimes you can see claw marks left by a dog above toe pads of the print, not always obvious.

The X trick is not really needed. It’s doubtful you will be casting fresh tracks: but just hiking.

How important of a find was the discovery of Hyperion, the tallest tree in the world? I think if you ask that question to ten different people, you will probably get ten different answers. Here in Redwood National and State Park, the discovery of Hyperion has been a double edge sword. On one side, the increase in public awareness of the Redwoods from this discovery has boosted tourism revenues and increased funding for scientific research. On the other side, there has been an onslaught of people trying to see, find, and climb this tree. Most of the seekers have the best intentions, however most are unaware of the fragile environment the tree exists in. These giants are extremely sensitive to impacts from human interaction due to their shallow root systems. The exact location of Hyperion has, for the most part, been kept a secret. With the increase of more precise GPS and Google satellite images available, it is probably possible to figure out where the tree is. But why? There is no need to trample off trail to find these trees there are plenty of big trees to look at from the trails of Redwood National and State Park.

The Guinness World Records website (www.guinnessworldrecords.com) is allowing those with an insatiable hunger for unbelievable feats and facts to vote online for their own personal favorite record from the decade. Once the votes are tallied, Guinness World Records will announce the public’s choices early next year.

“This is the first decade of the new millennium and one of the most exciting and interesting that Guinness World Records has been around to chronicle,” said Craig Glenday, Guinness World Records Editor-in-Chief. “As we get ready to mark the next ten years ahead, we’d like to take a look at the past with all our fans and remember some of the best.”

TALLEST LIVING TREE: The tallest tree currently growing is Hyperion, which measured 115.54 m (379.1 ft) in September 2006. This coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) was discovered by Chris Atkins and Michael Taylor (both USA) in the Redwood National Park, California, USA on 25 August 2006.

For more records to choose from and to vote online please go to: http://2010.guinnessworldrecords.com/top100.asp.

Coming to visit Redwood National Park with your kids? Are you interested in learning about Redwoods? As a professional guide who spends a lot of time trying to come up with ways to teach people of different ages and educational backgrounds about redwood ecology, I am constantly looking for new ways to present the information. One of the best web sites I have found for information about redwood trees is from the San Francisco-based Save the Redwoods League www.savetheredwoods.org. Save the Redwoods League’s web site offers a wealth of online resources on just about everything redwood related. Save the Redwoods League has put a lot of time in to teaching kids about the Earth’s tallest beings. One of their new features is the online Redwood Transect Kit for Educators. It is fun to navigate and encourages visitors to learn about the redwood forest and then spend time outside exploring using a transect activity. (www.education.savetheredwoods.org) Somewhat like a treasure hunt, this method asks kids to follow a real or imaginary transect line through an area of forest and keep track of what they find such as leaves chewed by insects or other animals, seed pods, signs of fire or footprints. The website features a photo album to share images kids captured along the way as well as their redwood inspired artwork and poetry. Kids Ecology of the Redwood Forest is a teacher created site that serves as a mini-photo guide to the flora and fauna of the redwood forest. You can view photos of fern or conifer types before heading outside to look for these on your walk.